The skew is the one tool that has gained an unjust notoriety.
It is famous for the spiral patterns that cross a work
piece when a smooth surface finish is the required end
result. The skew chisels is a tool that is for use on
spindle work only.
Here are a few hints on how to get the
best results when using the skew.
- First of all match the size of skew
being used to the size of the workpiece. It is not advisable to
use a 1" skew on a project the size of a lace bobbin. Instead
a more suitable size would be a ½". This would enable full manouevrability
within the confines of the short project length. The larger the
project the bigger the skew should be. A good starting size for
a skew is 1". This will cater for the majority of chair legs,
goblets, pepper mills and ballusters.
- When using the skew to plane a section
of spindle work into a cylinder do not have the rest set in the
standard turning position. Instead raise the rest up until it
is ½" below the top edge of the wood. This enables the tool to
be held almost horizontal, and the handle is then running along
the forearm. This in effect braces the tool and as such it is
then more difficult for the wood to push it away from the work.
- The cutting edge has a long point which
is called the toe, and a shorter point called the heel. When planing
wood the tool can be used with either point uppermost. However,
the most commonly used position is to have the toe uppermost with
the cutting edge intersecting the axis of the wood at 45 degrees.
- To start, the cut place the blade of
the tool on the rest with the handle low. Rub the bevel on the
revolving wood and raise the handle until the edge begins to cut.
At this point traverse the tool across the face of the wood. The
thickness of shaving is altered by raising or lowering the handle.
This is a brief insight into the skew.
Remember the bevel rubs throughout the cut.